Four Different Types of Roofing Materials

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A home can never be complete without a roof. Roofing is obviously the very first line of defense against any harsh weather, as well as other types of elements which could affect a certain home's quality, appearance and value. Therefore, it is significant to put some thought into choosing the right type of materials for your roof. The good news is that there is always a wide variety of choices in materials and manufacturers to choose from for quality roofing.

To begin with, an asphalt material shingle is a very common type of product, especially with American homes. It will work great for a wide range of styles of roofs and may be a perfect choice for your home. Asphalt shingles do not cost that much and run from around 1 to 5 dollars for every square foot depending on your provider, as well as the kind of home that you have.

Asphalt roofing shingles come with a lot of advantages for your home. Usually the most important factor to a home owner, it is affordable. Secondly, this kind of roofing is a lot easier to repair compared to others. It can work well on just about any style of roof and is manufactured in various colors, shapes, depths of dimensions. This kind of roofing material is also resistant to any effect that great heat from the sun and inclement weathers conditions could cause.

Now, let's move on to the second type of roof which is rubberized materials. This is an eco-friendly choice that can assure durability, cost-effectiveness and also proven to be leak proof even when it's made from various recycled materials. Also, it does no require heavy maintenance due to the light weight and flexibility it carries. Rubber roofing comes in two types: shingled and whole roof. The shingled ones are made from synthetic materials and are better for simple structured homes while the whole roofs are great for a more detailed architectural design.

The third kind would be the tile roofing which is considered as an internationally recognized type of roofing. Just like the above types, this one can ensure durability. As a matter of fact, it is proven to be invulnerable from fire. Also, its longevity could last for up to 100 years and can highly improve air ventilation. Tile roofing comes in various patterns, textures, colors and shapes which can make things more fun upon the process of choosing the right ones in order to bring true elegance out of your home through the roofing.

Last but not the least, wood roofing is popular for homes that need to undergo major renovations. This roofing material usually runs anywhere from 4 to 8 dollars for every square foot. The price also depends on the way of cutting. Wood roofing is essential if you want to give your home a warmer look. It also has the great ability to prevent the occurrence of heat transmission.

Any of these types of roofs can be a great choice for you to make. However, it is still best to consider getting consultation from an expert in order to know what's best for the type of home that you have in terms of safety, design and efficiency.

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Source by John Stackson

Advantages and Disadvantages of Inventory Management Software

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Inventory management software is used for tracking supplies and creating documents such as work orders, enquiry requests, input / output reviews and bill of materials or BOM. There are many pros for using such an application for your organization. A few cons are also associated with inventory management software, but these cease to be a problem if they are dealt with in a proper manner. Moreover, if you use one of the best inventory software applications in the market, you probably would not have to deal with the disadvantages.

Advantages

Reduction in Costs

Many organizations invest huge sums of money for their inventory. Obviously if they do not, they probably will not be able to operate their business smoothly enough. However, if you use the best inventory software, you can cut down all extra costs by not stuffing up the storage with unnecessary materials. Moreover, the software will also help you in avoiding lost sales because you will have adequate material at all times, without having to carry anything unnecessary.

High Efficiency

The best inventory software products increase your operating efficiency which leads to more productivity. This is possible because the program automates many tasks such as data collection, calculations and records maintenance. Since the chances of errors are reduced, efficiency increases. This also saves time on your part which you can utilize for other tasks.

Disadvantages

Price

Most inventory management software applications are priced quite high, and affordability can be an issue for small and medium sized firms. The hardware costs in the terms of barcode readers and other components can also add to the expense. However, this is just a onetime expense only. Once you get the software, you can recover this cost because the software aids you in saving money in other aspects.

Complexity

Inventory management software simplifies your business operations, but in itself, is quite a complex product. Grasping the basics can be hard and time consuming as well, and if you do not get the full grip of it, you probably would not be able to use it effectively enough.

There are a lot of training manuals available that can help you in this regard. The company which sells the software for you can also conduct training sessions on your request, but may ask for an additional price. As long as you are willing to put time into this, you will be able to overcome this obstacle.

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Source by Anjelina Anderson

Secrets to Filling the Punch Bags

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If you look on the internet (just perform a Google search on filling a boxing bag) for questions surrounding the topic of punch bags, a vast number of questions are about how to fill a punch bag. The main question people have is what material do I use?

I've seen answers given including: "fill it with water" or "use sand" or even better – "grass" – LOL. Water, sand is fine, but it really does depend on the heavy bag and the material the shell was made out of … Trust me, if you fill a regular punching bag with water, you could be in a lot of trouble .. . and you might need to buy a mop!

You can not use grass because it will smell. In addition, grass just do not pack well. The bag will be way too soft. If you disagree, well, do this: Cut your lawn and fill a garbage bag with grass. Try punching it … you'll get the point.

So for this article, I'm going to tell you what you need to know about filling a boxing bag. And I'm giving it all away based on years and years of experience at both dojos and boxing clubs.

The first important lesson to always keep in mind when filling the punch bags is the outer shell. I've had many of my students (unfortunately on a lower budget) come to me saying – what kind of material should I use so my aunt can sew me a bag? My answer – if you want to spend a lot of time & money buying material over and over, then you can do this.

Ok, what about buying a sack? A sack is not supposed to be hit with hard punches over and over. It was not made to withstand that kind of pressure. Again, like I said earlier, go this route if you're wanting to waste time and money. The best thing to do if you do not want to buy a punching bag that is already filled is get an unfilled bag. They were made to fill !!! Make sense?

And quite often, unfilled bags are cheap … because it's really the filler for the most part that distinguishes say Everlast from TKO or Aries.

So we do not have Everlast's special engineered filler … now what !? The next thing to keep in mind is the strength / stiffness levels of punch bags. Some heavy bags feel like hitting a brick wall … well, to the beginner it may seem this way. Others are like hitting a bag of grass … Well, not that soft (at least we hope not!) But you get where I'm coming from.

There are a variety of different materials you can use to fill a boxing punch bag. Through years of experience filling bags, the hands-down best way, in my opinion, is to fill the boxing bag with a combination of materials.

Here are materials you can use to fill boxer bags with:

* Cotton
* Wool
* Air
* Mattress Foam
* Water
* Clothes
* Saw Dust
* Feathers
* Rice
* Sand
* Styrofoam
* Rolled up and tightly packed garbage bags
* Shredded Tires

Now, let's bring this together. If you want a good speed bag, fill it with air .. it's that simple. For heavy bags, this gets a little bit more complicated. I'll tell you exactly what we used to do with the punch bags at the friendly neighborhood dojo when I was in martial arts school … Just do not tell anyone I told you.

I want you to look out for something: If you go to a boxing club or dojo, the majority of the answers you will hear from people about filling a boxing bag is to fill it with sand. Sand is I guess you could say, a common filling ingredient … but to people's dismay, it's NOT THE ONLY INGREDIENT in the filler. Professionals can get away with filling boxing bags with sand. Sand will make the bag very stiff. If you're a beginner, no doubt, you will injure your hands.

Here's what the dojos do … and probably nobody will tell you this about filling a punching bag … it's very simple! Here it is … short and sweet:

Fill with cloth. Then pack it tight. If it's too loose you'll have a deformed punching bag that will be too soft and uncomfortable to hit. The solution?

Use fine sand at the bottom to keep the punch bag essentially a "heavy bag" and keep it's shape. Fill the outer wall with cloth. Sleep mats or army sacks work very well. Proceed to fill the core of the punch bags you're filling with a mix of feathers and shredded tires and / or any rubber that's available.

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Source by Jermaine Ricketts

Are You Ready To Take The CIH Exam?

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One of the common mistakes safety professionals make when seeking CIH certification is timing and preparedness when studying for the CIH exam. A question that often gets asked is "when do I know if I'm ready to try to pass the exam?" Most safety professionals will seek either on-line or classroom courses to help prepare themselves for the exam. It is highly recommended that you complete one of these helpful courses. The following are five helpful tips to decide if you are ready to pass the exam:

1. Have you taken an exam prep course? These can be a great way to either kick off your studying or to review the material if you have already been preparing. If you feel that you have prepared adequately before taking the course, you may only need an additional 2-4 weeks of studying. If the course was your first introduction to exam preparation, it is in your best interest to take the time needed (at least 2-3 months) to review the materials from the course and learn any concepts that you have not yet mastered.

2. If you take a CIH prep course, be sure to make flash cards of concepts as well as important facts that you will need to have memorized. Decide on a certain number of flash cards that you will master each day, then put in the time to reach your goal. Once you feel you are comfortable with the material and you can recall approximately 90% of the material from your flash cards, you can feel confident that you will be prepared to take the exam. Of course this is only true if your flash cards cover the right material, so take the time to make sure you are studying the right material! Flash cards should cover each of the topics that will be covered on the exam.

3. Most courses provide example questions to help you prepare for the exam. You should be able to easily go through these questions before you sit for the real exam. If you find yourself struggling with several of these questions or concepts, you may not quite be ready to sit for the exam. Ideally you would like to be able to score at or above 90% for any practice exams or test you take prior to taking the real test.

4. Perhaps the best test to gauge your readiness for the exam is if you are able to not only learn the material, but to also teach it to someone else. Once you feel confident that you can explain the material to someone else without having to rely on your notes, you will know that you have really mastered the concepts.

5. Make sure you understand the formulas that will be provided to you on the exam and how to use them. These formulas are essential for passing the exam however, if you do not understand them then they will not be of much use come test day. Perhaps equally as important, make sure you are comfortable with the calculator that you will be using on test day. You should be using the same calculator you plan to use on your test as you are studying and preparing. Make certain that the calculator you are using is on the ABIH list of approved calculators. If you get to the test center and learn that your calculator is not approved, this could prove devastating, not to mention cost you valuable testing time, if you are forced to use a calculator that you are not familiar with.

Remember the goal for most people is to pass the exam, not score 100%. However, you still want to aim to score well above the actual required passing score to ensure you have the needed confidence and preparedness going into the exam. Give yourself the time needed to properly prepare for the exam. Master each of the concepts in that will be tested and come test day you will be confident and ready! Good luck, and remember people pass the CIH exam every year. You can too!

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Source by Kevin Abernethy

Why Molds Need Sprues and Vents

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Mold making and casting are relatively simple processes. Make a mold of the model you want to reproduce and then pour the casting material into the mold. Wait for it to cure properly before extracting, and viola your artwork is ready!

However, certain technicalities also creep into the picture. For instance, you have to choose the right mold making and casting products that are suitable for the job. At times, release agent, fillers and other items are also required.

Another important point is that as the casting material poured through the sprue, displaces the air in the mold, some air can easily get trapped inside and the casting material will be unable to completely fill the mold. These air pockets cause hollow spaces which can result in an unsightly and deformed cast.

So, how will you get rid of these air traps and pockets when casting silicone rubber or polyurethane resin?

The answer is simple – make vent holes! These are holes that are created in the sides of the mold usually on the high spots of the mold where air tends to first migrate. This allows air to escape from the mold when casting material is being poured inside. Now the casting material can reach all the corners and spots in the mold sans any gaps.

The location and number of vents is important. The holes are ideally placed along the top surface of the mold as air tends to rise to the top of the mold. It's best to create vents all along the top perimeter of the mold while ensuring that you cover all the high spots. Keep them an inch or so apart. If you are making sprues on the sides of the mold, ensure that they taper up or else the casting material will easily flow out of the mold!

How to?

Vents are made by drilling holes in the surface of the finished mold. Alternatively, you can even insert hollow tubes during the mold making process itself. When removed later, the tunnel will serve as a sprue.

The same vent holes can serve a dual purpose. Apart from working as a vent for air to exit the mold, the hole can also be used as an alternate sprue, to add liquid casting material into the mold. Think injection molding!

In case the same vent is used as a sprue hole and vent, it should be located at the highest point of the mold and be large enough to allow the air to escape even while the material is being poured.

Carefully pour the silicone rubber or polyurethane resin into the sprue hole and continue till it overflows from all the vents. This shows that the material has displaced all the air inside. The material will cure in the vents too and can be cut be cut off after demolding.

Please not that only closed molds require vents. If the mold is open at the top (will become the flat bottom of the cast), the air can escape easily and the material will fill out without requiring any vents.

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Source by Aarron Barry

How to Lay Hardcore Under Concrete Floor Beds

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Hardcore is the material put under floors. It is used as a sub base after building the foundation wall to make up levels before casting the ground floor concrete slab. The recommended is hard stone ballast or quarry waste that should not pass a sieve of more than six inches when broken down. This shall be free of weeds, roots, vegetable soil, clay, black cotton soil or other unsuitable materials. Broken stones or brick cuttings can also be used as hardcore.

To lay hardcore under floor beds, use well graded smaller pieces mixed with fine materials. This will give a dense compact mass after consolidation. This shall be laid in layers not exceeding ten inches of consolidated thickness. Sufficient fine materials shall be added to each layer to give a gradation necessary to obtain a solid compact mass after rolling. A ten tonne smooth wheeled or two tone vibrating roller should be used to compact each layer.

Compact each layer with eight passes of the roller when laying hardcore under floor beds. Add sufficient water with every pass to obtain maximum compaction. To each layer add a fine layer of sand or quarry dust forced into the hardcore by a rolling vibrator. All the materials used must always be dry to avoid caking or stickiness. This may allow pockets of air or free spaces. This may sink when the hardcore is loaded with weight. If the sand is absorbed into the holes between hardcore then keep compacting.

Thoroughly compact the hardcore filling under floor beds until sand is not absorbed. The top surface should be made level. The levels are done or graded to the required falls. After this is done a blinding layer of similar broken materials is added. This is of at least one inch in thickness. A ten tonne roller is used to smoothen the surface. This mass of hardcore is now ready for anti termite, damp proofing and mesh reinforcement material before concreting the ground floor slab.

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Source by Andrew Karundu

Sandblasting Explained: The Usage, Materials And Process To Produce A Piece Of Art

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A lot of people have heard of the term sandblasting. There are even people who make use of sandblast resist products as giveaways to their events and other parties. In addition, there are some people who consider sandblast stencil as a new form of art. Whatever it is, sandblasting is a generalized term which is used to describe an action of forcing minute bits of material at a very high velocity in order to etch or clean a surface.

Materials Used

Despite its name though, there are now several other materials that can be used instead of sand. On the list of these probable materials are copper slag, steel grit, powdered abrasives, walnut shells, and even small bits of coconut shell. For several years, these alternate materials have long been used. Each of the materials always had its own purpose for being sandblasted as well as a benefit which is why they are being used. But it was only recently that these materials were used instead of sand to create an etched piece of art.

One material that can not be used for this though is diamonds. This is because they are harder than all the other suggested materials. As long as the process is done in the same manner, it is still considered as sandblasting. The reason why sand is no longer being used for this is because it causes a lung disease known as silicosis. This is due to the extended inhalation of the dust which was created by the sand material used.

The Sandblasting Process

In order to do this technique, there are some things that need to be done as a precaution. Since there is a threat for inhaling the dust, the process is done in a carefully controlled room that has appropriate ventilation. In addition, the person doing the process needs to wear the right protective outfit to protect him. There should also be a substitute air supply for the successful completion of the process.

Tools Needed

Traditionally, the equipment involves three various parts which are the abrasive, blaster nozzle, and an air compressor. When using the machine to etch or clean a small object, a fourth piece of material is needed as to hold the glass in place. Lastly, a collector is also necessary so that the excess dust can be collected.

Purpose of Sandblasting

Primarily, this is a process for two different purposes. The first is to abruptly clean the surface of an object. This has long been a practice in the United States and was even patented in 1870. For this purpose, it is used to prime a surface before a sealant or paint can be applied. Apart from cleaning a surface, this technique is more popularly used to carve or etch a design onto a piece of glass or a similar material such as plastic. Many have found that decorating glass results to a beautiful piece of art. In order to achieve this though, there are two options: sandblast or to etch by hand. The second option is more expensive and time-consuming though, which is why this method is clearly the preferred option.

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Source by Connor R Sullivan

What's an LED Light Made Of?

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An LED or light emitting diode is an optoelectronic device, which can emit light when it is properly biased. The early light emitting diodes used to emit a light beam of rather low intensity, but the modern ones make up for this set back by proper illumination or emission of light. The light emitted by modern LED's are in numerous wavelengths, and hence they offer a wide range of colors for us to choose from. The main advantages of LED's are their limited power consumption and very high efficiency. They are pretty robust, rugged and tough enough to withstand mechanical shocks given to them, they have a very quick switching response and they are very compact.

A light emitting diode is almost similar in construction to a pn diode; the light emitting diode is made of a semi-conducting material such as silicon or germanium, which is doped with p-type and n-type impurities in order to get a pn formation. The LED usually consists of the following parts, an epoxy lens or case to cover the semi conducting material, wire bonds, reflective cavity, semi conductor die and anvil post which is also known as the lead frame.

When a potential is applied to this device a current flows through the junction resulting due to the recombination of the holes and electrons, the recombination results in the release of energy in the form of light photons.

The production of the LED's actually began with red and infrared devices, which contained gallium arsenide. Now many ranges of colors are available when we look for a particular type of LED. Advancements in material science and physics have lead to the manufacture of LED's with wavelengths shorter then ever.

The light emitting diodes are built upon an n- type substrate with an electrode attached to the p- type layer deposited on the surface. Sapphire substrate is of common use in modern light emitting diodes. Most of the materials for the manufacture of light emitting diodes have a high index of refraction. Much light is reflected at the material air surface interface.

The usual red LED's most of us have come across are made up of gallium arsenide phosphide, the orange ones can also be made up of the same material, zinc selenide is used for the manufacture of blue LED's, in this way many chemical compounds form the raw materials for the manufacture of LED's of different colors.

Next time you use an LED, now you know what they are made of!

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Source by Lydia Quinn

How To Install A Bocce Court

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Bocce is a ball game that dates back to the age of the Roman Empire; it used to be a sport played on dirt. It required special skills to win the game on dirt, because throwing the ball to the target on dirt was not an easy thing to do.

The complexity of being able to roll the ball through the dirt to the set target turned many off from the game. The idea of ​​dirt-free bocce courts made the sport interesting to all clans who wished to play the game, because they did not have the need to deal with the hefty task of playing in the dirt. The sport has survived to date due to leveled bocce courts. Eventually, it has continued to be one of the most liked backyard sport and people of all ages play this game. This game is played as a tourney, league or commonly as a social leisure. There are famed Bocce Champions as well.

The bocce ball game when played in specially designed bocce courts provide players with great recreational experience.

Materials Making the Court

The standard recommendations for building a bocce court consisted of lumbar, drainage and gravel. The bocce court has the backstops and sideboards made out of weather-resistant lumbar. The play area in the court is compacted with crushed stone dust, natural gravel or clay. A tiny fortune invested in an excellent drainage system enhances the playability and longevity of the leveled surface.

The materials used to build the bocce court can differ from one to another based on personal choice and convenience. However, there are recommendations about the choice of materials and commonly applied dimensions for the court.

Layout Dimensions

The dimensions of the bocce court can follow the width range anywhere from 8 through 14 feet and the length can be somewhere from 60 to 90 feet. The recommended size for private backyard court has dimensions reading 10 x 60 feet. However, municipal courts or those meant for community bocce events, tourneys and leagues are set at larger dimensions at 12 x 76 feet up to 13 x 90 feet.

Surface Quality

The game is all about rolling the ball. It is important for the court to be flat and straight to ensure complete roll of the ball with minimal or zero bounce. The goal is to create a court with zero bumpy surfaces. Coarse material renders the surface too loose eventually hindering free rolling of ball. Based on personal budget and project affordability, one might have to do the best to invest in materials that form a smooth firm surface.

Post-play dent restoration becomes difficult on surfaces formed with large particles. Downpour during heavy rain leads to stagnant water and drainage therefore becomes difficult. Therefore, the best recommended surface material is one that consists of small particles. Eventually, minimal upkeep restores playability.

Crushed Oyster Blends versus Traditional Options

Crushed oyster shells blend well with few other natural materials enhancing the quality of binding, therefore, providing excellent drainage. The traditionally recommended material is stone dust, but increasing number of luxury bocce courts, use oyster shells blend with clay to bring in premium leveling.

When it comes to using stone dust for the surface, the dust is supposed to be fines. Coarser particle size of the gravel will make the field bumpy. Clay is an alternative in regions where appropriate particle size of sand dust becomes unavailable.

In regions where heavy rain is common, the downpour can lead to standing water. Therefore, excellent drainage system becomes essential to restore playability of the court at the earliest.

Procure Appropriate Perimeter and Surface Materials

Procure pressure-treated (or) ground-contact perimeter rails of appropriate size or pressure-treated (or) ground-contact perimeter posts of appropriate sizes for the external perimeter as needed.

Buy contact points for the end walls in the perimeter rails with appropriate Trex decking lengths. Procure pressure treated or standard perimeter caps, fasteners, lag screws, washers, and square head decking screws to strengthen the structure. For setting the drainage in small courts, sleeve drain tubing that provides minimum of 60 'of 3 "perforation / corrugation is used. The corrugation size should be more for bigger courts.

Purchase limestone or class 2-road base as needed to fill the depth of the court base. The surface material for the field can be appropriate sized sand dust / gravel, clay, or oyster shell blend as per personal choice. The appropriate perimeter chosen for the court can vary considering the private or community usage targeted for the court. The quality of the soil should be favorable to digging and installing of postholes.

The Installation of The Bocce Court

The perimeter, the length and width of the field, are marked using the post or plank styles. In the plank perimeter style, it is a common approach to double up with the 2 "planks or by using 3" or 4 "thickness straight lumbar. In the perimeter marking process using poles, posts are commonly dug in per 5 'or 4' . In both the post and plank finishes, capping improves aesthetics.

Cement surrounds are increasingly becoming common in environments that face extremes of climate. In such conditions, concrete perimeters work best. Wood or composite liner finishes in the inner regions of the concrete boundaries saves the balls from suffering constant abrasions. Setting the bumper in concrete with appropriate liners are a permanent solution to avoid abrasions.

Dig out the top soil to nearly 10 "in the perimeter and fill the area with limestone or class 2-road base. Drilling, driving nails, and appropriate centering ensures rebar support thus strengthening the structure. Good quality finishing at the fasteners is important, because if the fastener fails particles get in between the railing and repair gets to be expensive.

Back walls are set up for rebounding. Rubber fenders or sheet steel is the commonly used finish for the end walls in bocce courts. Trex decking is an alternative for better finishes as well.

Care should be devoted to creating a leveled court with the appropriate surface blends and tamping. Appropriate buffer placed in the court absorbs shocks created by overshot balls. Court markings and foul lines as needed are marked on the sideboard. Community-bocce-courts require facilities that permit the usage of wheelchairs by disabled people. The final stage of Installation involves setting up of ball racks and scoreboards. Glare-free lighting in place ensures playability after sunset.

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Source by Sharmela Mukuntha Krishnan

Neoprene Koozies Vs Polyurethane Koozies: What's the Difference?

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Promotional Can Coolers are a great way to get your personalized logo, graphics, or message into the hands of your target audience. They are an economic and functional solution for your next personal or business marketing campaign. Choose from a variety of designs, choosing color, size, and material. There is a large selection of colors to match the theme of your special event, or to help highlight your custom printed image. There are also two sizes of can cooler to choose from, which depends on the material it is constructed out of: the neoprene can coolers hold only 12oz beverages while the Polyurethane Foam holds 12oz or 16oz beverages. Each of these personalized can coolers can be manufactured from either three millimeter thick Neoprene or polyurethane foam. Both of these designs feature superior comfort, insulation, and style.

The printed Neoprene can coolers are made of a thinner material, fit all 12oz cans, and have a large 2.5 "HX 2.4" W print area. This is because neoprene is a type of synthetic rubber that will maintain its insulation despite the thickness of the material, as well as being extremely flexible and durable. However, unlike other rubber-like materials, neoprene is much more affordable, making it suitable for a broad variety of uses like: wet suits, laptop sleeves, and dishwashing gloves. Alternately, the polyurethane foam material is slightly thicker but with a different construction. This makes it suitable for 12-16oz cans, long neck bottles, and water bottles. Polyurethane has a number of uses that depend on the form that the material takes. Depending on how it is processed, polyurethane can be a thick sturdy plastic, a thin sheet, or a foam .. Polyurethane foam comes in two basic constructions: open cell and closed cell. Open cell polyurethane foam allows air to pass easily through the material, making it comfortable and suitable for mattress pads or seat cushions.

The polyurethane foam construction in these can coolers is actually a closed cell foam, meaning it has bubbles of gas trapped in the material. This makes it a good insulator, but also makes it a little thicker than the solid neoprene. The polyurethane foam can coolers allow a 2.5 "Width x 2.25" Height print area, which is slightly smaller than the neoprene design. Regardless of the material you choose for your can coolers, the quality of printed images or text will not be affected. It is often hard to find a promotional product that will not only attract the attention of your target audience, but also incline them to pick it up and use it. Can coolers are a great idea for promotional giveaways or as unique party favors because they are functional and can be easily folded to fit in your pocket. This will encourage your guests to bring your promotional product home and save it for further use. Choose these personalized can coolers for your next business function or organizational event, because they will provide the type of logo or brand visibility that is essential to a promotional campaign.

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Source by Amin Ramjee